Sweeping in an arc around the north west of London, the Chilterns National Landscape is an area of outstanding natural beauty, offering 324 square miles (839 sq km) of countryside, with rolling chalk hills, flower-filled woodlands, quaint market towns and timeless villages. This wonderful part of southern England should not be missed!

Watlington Hill in the Chilterns © Dave Olinski

The perfect place to start your journey of discovery in the Chilterns is in one of the characterful market towns. With its half-timbered houses and handsome Market Hall, Amersham is one of the most photogenic towns in the Chilterns and Henley-on-Thames, the international home of rowing, enjoys a scenic setting on the River Thames. Walk through the historic streets of Chesham into the delightful Chess Valley or visit the elegant streets and coaching inns of Old Beaconsfield. Follow the Thames Path to Pangbourne and immerse yourself in the idyllic world of The Wind in the Willows. Marlow, which is also on the Thames, combines natural beauty with contemporary chic.

Marlow © www.GreatWestWay.co.uk

Landscape and leisure

Only a few miles from both Henley-on-Thames and Marlow, the Hambleden Valley links the River Thames with the Chilterns. Representing the English countryside at its very best, the valley feels wonderfully remote and is perfect for anyone in search of peace, quiet and nature. The sleepy villages of Hambleden, Fingest, Skirmett and Turville, with their pretty churches, quaint country pubs and breathtaking scenery, offer visitors the chance to step back in time and, for wildlife lovers, this is one of the best places in England to look for red kites.

Hambleden

Opera lovers shouldn’t miss the annual Garsington Opera Festival, which is held over seven weeks from the end of May each year and is an intimate experience, set in the grounds of Wormsley Estate, a beautiful country house in the Hambleden Valley.

With a landscape rich in wildlife and a long and fascinating history, the Chess Valley has some of the most attractive countryside in the Chilterns. Visitors can discover the site of a Roman villa at Latimer, explore 13th century Chenies Manor, visited by Henry VIII and Elizabeth I, and see the watercress beds at Sarratt.

Coombe Hill is the highest point in the Chilterns. Managed by the National Trust, this is a popular place for birdwatching and, in summer, the display of wildflowers is stunning. From Coombe Hill visitors can enjoy far-reaching views over the Aylesbury Vale and Chequers, the country home of the British Prime Minister.

Chenies Manor

Henley-on-Thames is a jewel in the Chilterns crown, famous for its rowing connections and the river that runs through it. There’s an excellent mix of shops, cafés and restaurants, boating and Thames-side walks to suit all tastes. Visit the annual Royal Regatta or follow the story of rowing and the River Thames at the River & Rowing Museum.

The medieval village of West Wycombe sits above a set of chalk caves renowned for hosting the notorious Hellfire Club, set up by Sir Francis Dashwood in the 18th century. Travel deep beneath the Chiltern Hills and see where Sir Francis and his guests ate, drank and possibly undertook more sinister rituals!

Henley-on-Thames

Set on the slopes of the Chiltern Hills, Whipsnade Zoo is the UK’s biggest zoo and home to more than 2,500 animals, many of which are endangered in the wild. Whipsnade offers inspiring exhibits and exciting events for all the family. Families will also love Odds Farm Park, an award-winning farm offering lots of animal fun and adventure, with goats, ponies, donkeys, pigs and more.

A walkers’ paradise

The Chilterns Walking Festival, which is held each May and October, sees more than 60 countryside walks and events taking place, showcasing nature reserves, iron age hillforts, farms, churches, filming locations and more.

Perhaps enjoy a walk discovering some of the locations used in the popular British TV series Midsomer Murders, which is filmed in the Chilterns, and many of the pretty villages of Midsomer are actually in Oxfordshire and Buckinghamshire. Filming locations include Wallingford, Amersham, Beaconsfield and Great Missenden.

Sheep in the Chess Valley © Paul Jennings

Great Missenden was the home of famous children’s author Roald Dahl, who lived in the village for over 36 years and who wrote many of his most popular books there. The Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre is the place for kids of all ages to discover and be inspired by his works.

Other walking routes in the Chilterns include The Ridgeway, which has been used by travellers for more than 5,000 years. Starting at the World Heritage Site of Avebury in Wiltshire, it crosses the chalk ridges of the North Wessex Downs and the Chilterns National Landscape and finishes with a magnificent view from Ivinghoe Beacon near Dunstable.

Lacey Green Windmill

Tucked away in tranquil woodland on the edge of The Ridgway, close to Princes Risborough, is the small Iron Age hillfort at Pulpit Hill. The ancient monument is well preserved, with the complete circuit of defences and the entrance still in existence today. Also close to Princes Risborough is Lacey Green Windmill, the oldest smock windmill in Britain which dates back to around 1650. Climb inside using steps and ladders to explore all four floors.

The Thames Path follows the longest river in England for 184 miles from its source in the Cotswolds almost to the sea. In the Chilterns National Landscape, it passes from Wallingford to Marlow, via Goring, Pangbourne and Henley-on-Thames. Desirable riverside towns are combined with wonderfully scenic stretches on mostly gentle walks that everyone can enjoy. The section of the Thames Path which runs through the Chilterns also forms part of the Great West Way, a popular touring route which follows 500 miles of navigable routes between London and Bristol.

Thames Path © www.GreatWestWay.co.uk

History and heritage

Stately homes to visit in the Chilterns include Stonor Park, an historic country house and private deer park near Henley-on-Thames. One of the oldest English family homes, Stonor has been part of the Stonor family for 850 years. Mapledurham House is an Elizabethan manor house and watermill on the banks of the Thames and Greys Court, a magnificent Tudor house associated with the lords of the manor of Rotherfield Greys near Henley-on-Thames, was once home to James Bond creator Ian Fleming’s mother.

Greys Court

John Milton’s Cottage in Chalfont St Giles was the home of the famous poet and parliamentarian, who took refuge in the Chiltern Hills when the Great Plague of 1665 struck London. It was here that he finished Paradise Lost. Still atmospheric, the cottage provides a fascinating insight into the life and work of this influential man.

Close to Chalfont St Giles is the Chilterns Open Air Museum. Explore over 30 reconstructed historic buildings, including an Iron Age roundhouse, 1940s prefab, blacksmith’s forge and Victorian toll house, all set in 45 acres of beautiful Chilterns countryside.

Discover the romantic ruins of Berkhamsted Castle, one of England’s hidden heritage gems. Steeped in over 950 years of history, Berkhamsted was where the Anglo-Saxons surrendered to William, Duke of Normandy in December 1066, and he became 'The Conqueror'.

Bekonscot Model Village

Step back in time to the England of the 1930s at Bekonscot Model Village, in Beaconsfield, the world’s oldest and original model village, which opened for the first time in 1929. With a huge model railway, 1.5 acres of well-kept gardens and finely detailed model buildings, Bekonscot is a great day out for everyone.

Vintage train enthusiasts will enjoy the Chinnor & Princes Risborough Railway, a standard gauge heritage railway that runs along the foot of the Chiltern escarpment, and one of the best ways to enjoy the Chilterns is by boat. Salter’s Steamers runs trips on the River Thames with great views of the Chiltern Hills. Boats depart from Marlow, Henley, Reading and Wallingford.

Accommodation and eating out

Now a luxury hotel, the Latimer Estate overlooking the Chess Valley was once a top-secret centre for military intelligence during World War II, where it gained its name as one of Britain’s most secret homes. Uncover more of the estate’s hidden past while enjoying afternoon tea, dinner or a short break in idyllic surroundings.

There are of course many other delightful places to stay in the Chilterns, from five-star hotels to welcoming bed and breakfasts, and from self-catering cottages to camping and glamping.

Hughenden Valley © Dave Olinski

As almost two-thirds of the Chilterns National Landscape is working farmland, foodies can enjoy local produce on menus everywhere, from historic coaching inns to Michelin-starred restaurants. With pubs a-plenty, vineyards, breweries, and many markets, there is much to delight the tastebuds in the ‘larder of London’.

If you or your group would like to enjoy a visit to the Chilterns on a tailor-made tour of England, please do contact our friendly team today. 

With thanks to Chilterns National Landscape.